What a wonderful world!

I am in the village of Zunglen (Drepung Gewog, Monggar). It is a typical Bhutanese village with a typical rural hospitality. The family is thrilled and excited that I have stepped into their house with few of my friends. We are ushered into their best room – the altar, and offered tea and tengma (beaten maize) with butter. The tea ceremony is followed by ara (local sake) with fried eggs. The whole family is suddenly at our disposal attending to us that we are comfortable and well-fed.

So much of warmth, so much of hospitality and so much of good will. This is something I have noticed in all my travels within our beautiful country. I am sure many of us (urban dwellers) would have experienced these 5-star treatments when we were on tour in rural Bhutan. The question is, do we in any way reciprocate this hospitality when these people come to urban areas?

The answer, shamelessly, is a resounding no!

But, of course, to be practical we may not be able to invite them to our homes unless they are familiar to us. We may not be able to offer drinks to each and every villager coming to Thimphu.

But still, there are things we could do. For example, we could help them by doing our job well. I mean many of them come to Thimphu to make their citizen’s identity card, passports, driving licences and various permits, to see government officials or to pay their loans or seek new one. We could help them by speeding public services for them.

We could help them by drafting application letters, filling up forms or giving them directions. We can drop them to the right office and refer them to the concerned official. We could seek information on their behalf and provide them guidance and help.

We could help them by making it easier for them to avail some basic services. For example, the banks could employ few unemployed youths whose sole job would be to fill up withdrawal and deposit forms. I have done this many times as I waited for my turn with the token number. Hospitals could do the same. People employed to help them see the doctors and get medicines from the pharmacy. Remember they can’t read or write. Our public offices are so customer unfriendly that even I get lost when I land in a new office. Unless you spot someone you know, there won’t be anyone giving you directions and neither would there be any information guide.

There are so many things we could do to reciprocate the warmth and hospitality we enjoy in rural areas. So the next time you see a villager who looks lost in a bank or in the hospital or in your office, ask him if he or she needs help. You will not only bring some relief, you will also feel happy to have done something worthwhile that day. If you can't do this, at least don't run over them with your car, or shout at them, as they stray aimlessly in the streets of Thimphu.

Well-done BBS!

BBS TV has finally got its own place after squeezing in with the radio for over ten years.  Well-done BBS! Especially the engineering guys who are always the unsung heroes of BBS.  And of course the new management for seeing this project through after so much of initial delays.

The event made me recollect another historic moment for BBS that occurred exactly 23 years back - on June 2, 1986.

It was on that day that BBS became “BBS” in place of Radio NYAB.  I am sure very few people in BBS would know this.  So just for the record, it was the day when BBS got its own 5KW RIZ transmitter commissioned.  Until then Radio NYAB was riding on the waves of the Wireless Department’s 400W BEL transmitter (a military piece made of pure iron that would give electric shock from all its parts when it was ON).

On June 2, 1986 we bid goodbye to Radio NYAB.  Dasho Karma Lethro, who was the deputy minister of communications & tourism inaugurated the station and was the first voice to go on-air from the new transmitter.  Late Dasho Rinzin Dorji was the director of information (that included BBS, Kuensel and DSCD), Mrs. Louise Dorji was the head of BBS and Mr. Sangay Tenzing (now DG of Roads) was the station engineer.  I was a junior engineer back then - one of the sixteen staff members.

So when you consider technician working with electric shock giving transmitters, RJs talking from that cold, stinking and haunted studio and reporters dishing out hand-written news bulletins, we must be proud of BBS with its new state-of-the-art master control room and satellite uplink facility.  I am told the production studios are air-conditioned.

Not bad, right?  We always think so low of ourselves.  It is about time we Bhutanese hold our chin high and boldly move to the future.

From Macau with the concept of "special economic zone"

The southern province of Guangdong used to be the backwaters of China since time unknown. However, beginning 1979, the Chinese government introduced some serious economic reforms that included allocation of “special economic zone (SEZ)” status to couple of cities and regions – Shenzhen was the first city to be declared one.

The net result – these region have recorded some of the fastest economic growth in China - and in the world. Shenzhen is today the fourth richest city in China and a shining example of the SEZ concept. As a value-addition, millions of people got diverted here. Otherwise they would be heading for Beijing or Shanghai.

One of the recurrent debates in our country is the rural-urban migration, or more precisely rural-Thimphu migration - balanced development being a natural by-product of the discussion. We keep complaining that everything is happening in Thimphu. But on the other hand, how do we reverse the trend - even if we really want to?

One strategy would be to introduce the concept of “special economic zones” here in Bhutan too. To start with, we could have SEZ declared for dead-end towns like Dagana, Pema Gatshel, Tashi Yangtsi and Lhuntshi followed by other areas that do not attract any investments. People wishing to set up business in these areas could be granted tax holidays, income tax exemptions, power subsidies, credit facilities etc.

One of the prime considerations should be the creation of employment, which is beginning to be a major problem in our country. Driving the local economy and employment thereby releasing some pressure from Thimphu, in every sense, is something what we could possibly achieve with this concept. Not to even mention the balanced development and equity that will follow suit.

Aren't we (Bhutanese) special?

My kids and I have watched the animation movie - Kungfu Panda over and over again.  Between my daughters and I, no one really knows who enjoy the film more.  We just love the movie.  

For me it is because of just one line from the film.  In fact the key message of the film. 

It's when Po, our hero (the giant panda), comes back to his father after failing to reveal the secret dragon scroll.  When his father, unwittingly, tells Po that there were no secrets to his “secret ingredient soup.”  One only has to believe that “it is special” to be special.

For many years now, I felt we Bhutanese are special.  We are different (not with any superiority complex attitude) but just the fact that we are a small, independent and beautiful country.  This really makes me feel very special.  And of course one very eminent lama, whom I met as a student many years back in Italy, told me that Bhutanese are a special breed of people.  

The question is, do we all feel we are special?  And do instill this feeling in our children?

Just thinking.....

Bhutan's Net Generation

After a long time, last Sunday I happened to witness an inter-school quiz competition at the Thimphu YDF Hall.  The contest was organised by the Ministry of Information to mark the World Telecom & Information Society Day 2009.

The children were magnificent.  They knew things I didn't even hear about.  Except that much of the information they knew came from TV and the Internet.  Good? Bad? I don't know.  Depends on how you look at it! 

What was definitely not okay was our children lacking knowledge on our own culture, people, history and places.  For example, no one could get the picture of the last day of Paro Tshechu, while they instantly recognised the komodo dragon.  Likewise they could easily identify the official anthem of Arsenal FC, hit the tune of a certain singer called Lady Gaga and even spread out the career of the first American Idol.  

Of course, I was also pleasantly surprised that they got most of the questions on ICT and computers right.  Which makes me conclude that our children watch a lot of TV and are IT-savvy. 

Then if that's the case, why don't we capitalise on these attributes?  Use the TV to educate or re-educate our children and guide them and channel their viewing time to something meaningful.  Highlight youth issues, dignity of labour, values, self-esteem and other soft skills that will prepare them to face the future and take the country firmly into their hands.  

Why don't we work seriously on creating an "information society" or the "knowledge-based industry" on the strength of our children's flair for new technologies?  If the performance at the quiz competition is any indication, then what I am proposing is definitely not a wishful thinking.

On The Other Side of Paro Valley

I don't remember how many times I have been to Paro.  But I just realised that my visits, until now, were always confined to the left bank.  I mean along the Kyichu Lhakhang - Drugyel Dzong side.  So it was a very pleasant experience to be "on the other side of the Paro Valley" over the weekend.  Courtesy of a wild picnic outing by the Bhutan Times people.

Unlike the left bank, much of the other side of the Paro Valley is still pristine and beautiful with traditional mud houses and structures.  Thanks to the un-tarred road that runs parallel to the river and to the highway of the left bank, much of the original charm and romance of Paro are therefore retained.

The left bank, on the other hand, has become clusters of ugly high-rise and cemented jungle that have, sort of, destroyed the beauty and sacredness of Paro.  They come with all sorts of names - schools, hospitals, hotels, resorts, general shop cum bar, etc.  The other side has instead small stone and wooden structures adorned with beautiful gardens that greet you as you drive along the 5-km graveled stretch.  At the end of this road, where the BT people had camped for their annual picnic, is a place I would recommend for anyone looking for a spot to pitch a tent for a weekend outing.

There is also a feeder road that takes off from Tshendona village for Sangachokor - 7Km reads the milestone.  In fact it is a nice 7-km drive up to the peak taking you to Sangachokor monastery from where, apart from the sacred temples, you have the most amazing and breath-taking view of the Paro Valley.  Don't miss this experience and do it while you are still strong, alive and kicking.  You don't need a 4WD to get there.  The road is not tarred but good.  I was in a Maruti.

It is also a good spot to survey (and possibly ponder over) the two sides of the Paro Valley - and over the so-called urbanisation of our country. 

(Below is a photograph of the alpine town in Italy.  As a student I often went there because it attracted me.  Will our towns have the same appeal in future?  Maybe our town planners should take a cue from these places.)

Looking Beyond the Awards

So we have successfully organised the first annual media awards. 

Awards and recognitions such as these will hopefully provide the much-needed professionalism and dignity in the Bhutanese media.  Never mind the minor controversy this time.  In any contest anywhere that’s there.  In Bhutan, I have learnt, it is always there!  Because somehow we Bhutanese never learn to lose.  I guess it is the direct result of lack of sports and other competitive activities in our schools.  The Media Award was relatively less controversial. 

I hate controversies.  For fear of being dragged into one, I withdrew my film “Nazhoen Chharo” from the last film festival.  I was not scared of losing.  I was scared of engaging in petty quarrels and bad mouth.  So, to the disappointments of many of my fellow filmmakers I enjoyed the evening as a guest.  I was even asked to give away a prize (to the best newcomer female!).  That was lot more fun!

The wisdom behind awards in artistic fields, such as films and journalism, is of course a much-debated subject everywhere.  One theory, which I partially subscribe to, is that you can’t judge one film from the other.  Both are masterpieces in their own rights. And so are literary and journalistic works.  The subjects are different, the contexts are different and the intentions and intensities are different.  In short, there are too many subjective variables to enable objective judgements.  

However what I truly believe is that events such as the Bhutanese films and the media awards are more "a collective recognition of the profession rather than just the individuals".  In a society that looks down on every other profession other than government jobs, the fact that we have begun to recognise these industries is a step forward.  The institution of the Annual Media Award was therefore the biggest winner!  

There is no doubt that awards and recognitions can boost your motivations and drive - especially among young journalists.  So, while I celebrated the Bhutanese journalism and our film industry at the YDF Hall, together with all others, I also applauded and personally congratulated all the winners.  I had five entries to this first media awards and managed to secure one nomination,  which was not announced - for technical glitches, I was explained much later.  I believe them because many a times I have been on the receiving end as the organiser of such events.  Technical problems are routine in events of such magnitude. One only has to learn not to make the same mistake twice and never to make such mistakes intentionally.  

I have attended many films festivals and media awards around the globe.  Many a times I was a participant, at times I was a judge and few other times I was also the winner.  But the biggest win was just to be out there, representing my country, rubbing shoulders with the best in the profession and to befriend other contestants with whom you exchanged ideas, skills and techniques.  

One of my favourite memories was the one in Seoul where, after the award ceremony and the party, we were all cramped in the room of the grand prix winner.  We bullied him into giving us an insight into how, why and what went behind making such a masterpiece.  The workshop started at midnight and ended at five in the morning.  After learning a lot from the winner, we all went back to our rooms, packed our bags and shot straight for the airport.  Life moves on!

That’s what we should all be doing here.  Learning to lose and learning from the winners and above all, learning from each other.  

Only then we progress as professionals.

Spirited Away

Here is a piece I sent to Kuensel that will hopefully make us rethink some of our superstitions and beliefs.  By the way, thanks Kuensel for publishing the article! (Saturday April 18, 2009 issue)

Royal Gesture Dispels Stigma

The valley of Kurtoe is infamous for poisoners.  There are horrendous stories of people dying or falling seriously sick after eating or drinking from the hands of these people.  One such woman is Tashi Wangmo, 49, of Yogpaling Gonpa under Metsho Geog.  Locals believe she caused many deaths.  Tashi therefore is feared and ostracised by the whole community.  But Tashi has a different story to tell.

She was in her late teens when a childless man Gyetshela and his wife adopted her and asked her to look after their cattle.  Gyetshela was rich but his wife was another woman who was believed to possess that fatal magical power.  Twenty years back when the couple died, people started spreading rumours that Tashi has inherited that supernatural power to kill.  She was ostracised ever since and avoided like a devil.

“My father is a tshampa and my grandfather was a lam.  We come from a very good family.  So I guess it has got to do with what I did in my past lives,” says Tashi, almost resigning to her fate.  “Actually I was told that these things don’t pass through cattle but only through some home items,” she adds.

National Council member Rinzin who comes from the same region tried to demystify this belief system in his book Talisman of Good Fortune.  “These so-called poison-givers actually do not pass poisons physically,” says Rinzin.  “It is believed they have magical powers to do so.  This makes me conclude that things are exaggerated to extremes.”

To try “cleansing” herself from that stigma, Tashi and her father sold off all the cattle, but the locals continued ostracising her.  “If I had inherited that from the cattle, then the nine families who bought the cows and bulls should have taken away that power.  But no, it was just me,” says Tashi, who has ever since devoted much of her life to prayers to undo the bad karma.

And prayers for Tashi seems to have been answered in the recent visit of His Majesty the King to the area.  Like other people, Tashi Wangmo also presented herself with some ara to greet the royal entourage along the trail His Majesty was passing through.  And contrary to the advice of the local guide that His Majesty should not to take anything from her, His Majesty boldly took two cups of ara from her hands, embraced her and authorised her to tell the world that she has served the King in person and that the whole thing about poison-givers is baseless.  Other entourage members followed His Majesty by drinking from her hands.

The next day Tashi made a shy appearance in the public meeting His Majesty conducted for Metsho geog.  She was beginning to feel like a “normal” person.  But she was still confused and her face very gloomy.  

However, after flushing out her story she felt relieved and put on a faint smile – perhaps the first one after so many years.  And when asked about what she thought about His Majesty’s words, she broke down and cried bitterly.  She then wiped her tears and composed herself.  “I thought I was going to die with this stigma.  Zhab Rimpoche (His Majesty) has given me a new life.  I still cannot believe this has happened.  I hope I am not dreaming.” Tashi puts back another faint smile and after a long silence she enquires, “But why is only women ostracised with such a power?”

(NB.  A beautiful movie The Golden Cup was made based on this myth)

Re-discovering Bhutan

I am back.  I mean back to Thimphu and back to my blog. I have been away on a long walking tour to Lhuentse that took us to all the eight gewogs (sub-districts) and to almost every village and households. Well, to describe everything in one sentence – the trip was just enlightening!  In every sense I must say. 

Let me share some of my experiences.

First of all, we live in a beautiful country.  I may sound obvious but at times between all our mundane problems and challenges posed by our sophisticated modern life in Thimphu, we forget the obvious. And a trip like this is a pleasant reminder that we are blessed to be born, and to be living, in such a beautiful place.  I have travelled to many countries around the world.  So you can trust me when I say this.  I place a picture of a hamlet in Kurtoe to further support my statement.

So, if an opportunity comes to you to get out of Thimphu and go to these places, just do it!

Second, the true spirit, or the character, of Bhutan is out there – in the villages, among those farmers and in the eyes and faces of thousands of people we met along the trail. But these places are getting empty as more and more people are attracted by the urban limelight and modern paraphernalia.  So it makes me wonder what would become of our villages (and our country) when this group, living there now, leaves this world.

So, if there is anything you could do to retain our villages, just do it!

And lastly, this fall I plan to take my children to see what I have seen so that they grow up appreciating what is truly Bhutanese.  Raising them in Thimphu, I am afraid, is no different from raising them anywhere else.  We have TV, we have iPods, we have cars, we have everything that are quite un-Bhutanese.  A journey to discover our own country is perhaps what my daughters need – especially the elder one who is moving to her teens few years from now.

Well here, I must say, create an opportunity to travel back to your roots.  Forget Bangkok or Hong Kong for once.  You will not only re-discover your own country but you will also find 'yourself'.  Your essence of being a Bhutanese, and may be, a better human being.  I am sure it would be something you and your children would cherish forever.  Just do it, man!

(Here is a haiku (a form of Japanese poetry) sent by She Yo En inspired by the above photograph.  Thanks She Yo En!)

Behind the distant mountains
The white fluffy clouds appearing hopeful

While the hamlet at rest