Wednesday, August 24, 2011
His Majesty's Address at the Graduates’ Orientation Program, 23 August, 2011
Monday, August 8, 2011
Off the tourist trail
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| Clouds envelope mountains over Dawakha (Paro) |
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| Magnolia blooms in Athang Rukha. |
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| The dreadful Thrumshingla (actually Phrumshingla) divides the Eastern Bhutan with Central Bhutan. |
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| The much feared stretch of Namling (Bumthang-Monggar road) actually hosts a beautiful waterfall |
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| Trekking to Kengkhar (lower Monggar). Even the locals fear doing that trek because there are no streams or springs for days. |
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| Minjey (Lhuentse). People wait along the road to see the King. Some are there to get a glimpse. Others to appeal for some help or to seek justice they feel they are denied. |
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| Olep woman, Lower Wangdue. Oleps, together with their cousins, the Mongpa are believed to be the original inhabitants of Bhutan. |
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| A simple and heart-felt offering to the People's King. These traditional offerings are usually made to VVIPs when they visit rural areas of Bhutan. |
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| Chorten Kora (Tashi Yangtsi) - a place where a demon was subdued |
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| Gomdar (Samdrup Jongkhar) where Nyera Ama river runs through |
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| Gomokora (Tashi Yangtse), one of the holiest places in Bhutan |
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| Tashigang Dzong |
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| Kheng Gongdue (Monggar) |
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| Head of Buddha |
Monday, August 1, 2011
The floating statue of Chumphu nye
I had long heard of Chumphu Nye in Paro - about a magical statue floating in the air. And like a typical Bhutanese I waited for the perfect moment to make a pilgrimage there. That moment never came. And so last Sunday I decided I was going there and off I went – joined by three of my friends.
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| Way to Chumphu |
The walk is gentle and except for muddy trail that makes the walk little grueling, the weather, the greenery and the sound of the gushing river are otherwise a nice getaway from my everyday life of phone calls, emails and facebook. And of course there are nyedo all along the way giving us the excuse to stop and read the description. We also find the key and the gates to the Ter (hidden treasure) and so we are also on the right path to temporary enlightenment - giving us extra energy. After three hours we finally reach the confluence of the two rivers. We chose the smaller one and after walking for few meters, Chumphu Nye suddenly appears behind a mountain on our left – some 3000 feet from where we stand. An uphill trail welcomes us and we are almost with our last energy reserve. We push ourselves up till we are at the doorstep of the temple gasping for breath.
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| Dorji Phamo (Vajararahi) |
We all turn towards a beautiful life-size statue. “There are two things you need to know about this statue.” Lama Namgay continues, “First, it is not resting on anything. It is floating in the air. That is because the statue is not man-made. It is Dorji Phamo who appeared in person and turned herself to a statue. Second, anything you wish for, here, will come true.” As Lam Namgay continues talking to my friends I am drawn away from the group towards the statue. “Not man-made? Floating? Defying the gravity?” I repeat to myself staring at her face. Suddenly I feel something strange inside me – an unexplainable feeling of deep sadness, penitence and eternal bliss. At that moment, Lam Namgay finishes talking. “Come!” He ushers the group towards me and the altar. He opens the lower shutter enclosing the statue. “Look here! Her foot is not touching the base.” He slides a Nu. 10 note below the foot to show us that there was a small gap.” Everyone is dumbfounded, including me. "Now you can pray and make a wish," Lama Namgay smiles proudly and steps aside.
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| The key to the sacred place |
When we return to the temple, Lama Namgay offers us more tea and suggests we stay for the night. I really wish I could. But I have to get back to my work and to my life of phone calls, emails and facebook. But as we were leaving I suddenly turn back to have a word with him. “Look Lama Namgay! I had a strange feeling when I was inside there - in front of Dorji Phamo. She nearly made me break down and cry,” I ask him. “It happens,” he replies solemnly. “But only to few people. You must be a special person,” Lama Namgay looks to me admiringly. “Noooooooo!” I deny his offer. “I think somewhere deep inside me I was repentant of all my sins. I think my subconscious was asking for forgiveness from Dorji Phamo”. I joke. “May be!” Lama Namgay replies. We both laugh. “You must come again. And next time you must spend more time here. And if there is any prayer ceremony I could do here, just let me know.” Lama Namgay makes me promise I would return. We have instantly become friends. This is Bhutan.
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| Chumphu Nye from the lake |
It starts drizzling when we make our descent from Chumphu Nye. The path is slippery and so our progress is rather slow. When we reach the confluence I look back at the temple above me and as rain gently waters my face, I fold my hand, close my eyes, imagine the face of Dorji Phamo in front of me and I say my prayers and this time I also express a wish. I then take leave of Chumphu Nye.
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| The lake above the nye |
1. Photography inside the temple is not allowed. Hence the above is just a painting of Dorji Phamo - not the actual statue in Chumphu Nye.
2. Chumphu nye can be a day-trip from Thimphu. Wake up early, leave around 7am, get at the road head at 9am, keep four hours to hike there and two hours to hike back. Leave at least two hours to visit the area.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Convocation of the Royal University of Bhutan, Thimphu, 15 July 2011
The start of democracy and its future in Bhutan:
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Royal Address to the Local Government Leaders, 12 July 2011, Thimphu
“I say, with happiness and great satisfaction, that in the few years since 2008, we have conducted the general elections, adopted the Constitution, and formed the houses of Parliament, constitutional bodies, and the Supreme Court. And today we have accomplished yet another milestone, in establishing the first local governments under democracy. We have, therefore, laid all the founding pillars of democracy in Bhutan so early in my reign, as I fulfill the vision of my father, HM the fourth Druk Gyalpo, of a vibrant democracy.Thursday, April 7, 2011
Farewell my friend
Chimi was my associate producer when I was working in BBS. He was smart, intelligent, humorous and talented. He was one of the best newscasters and host we had. Chimi was also fiercely independent - a trait that other seniors found it somehow difficult to deal with. But I understood him better, took him into my unit and gave him the space and flexibility he needed and for that he respected me unconditionally and he delivered. However, he never spoke against anyone, respected his seniors who earned his respect and led his life and days on his own terms. When he put his heart and mind on work, no one among his peers could even come close to him in style, presentation and substance.
(Chimi's sudden demise shocked the entire Bhutanese media industry. He was only 32. When my wife met him recently he said he was looking forward to leaving for Australia soon)
Friday, April 1, 2011
Memories of Bangladesh

The show of gratitude was overwhelming. On 26th March 2011, when our King who was the Guest of Honour entered the National Stadium, the entire crowd cheered. When PM Sheikh Hasina, in her Address to the Nation, told the people that they should never forget what Bhutan has done for them, the entire stadium applauded again. Everywhere people went to great lengths to make sure we were well taken care and every little detail cared for. A café owner in the hotel where we were staying even offered free espresso to me every morning. “How many times would your King visit us anyway? It is on the house,” He said with pride and gratitude.
Apart from enjoying free espressos and official receptions I couldn’t help but also develop a great sense of respect and appreciation for Bangladesh and for the wonderful people there. In every media reports I had come across in the past, Bangladesh was considered a young, poor, over-populated and a disaster-prone country. I now have a different view. I see a nation of 160 million with centuries of history and with a great future. A beautiful country with humble and hard-working people who can build ships and satellites and not just ready-made garments and jute carpets.
Bhutan’s support for Bangladesh in 1971 was historic. As Bhutanese I felt proud of the visionary move by our Third Druk Gyalpo. Now to add to that, His Majesty the King, in his State Banquet speech this time, has offered “a life-long friendship and steadfast support to the government and people of Bangladesh.” It is obvious that Bhutan would always find a friend, ally and good neighbour in Bangladesh. Such developments augur well not only for Bhutan and Bangladesh but also for the peace, stability and prosperity in our region. As people we should now work towards nurturing this special relationship so that the mutual trust, goodwill and confidence would translate into actions and benefits for our two people for all time to come.
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| State reception at the Airport by the President of Bangladesh |
Wednesday, March 16, 2011
The Strength of the Rising Sun
March 11, 2011 - I was at a lunch in Akasaka (downtown Tokyo) with two of my friends, Sakitsu san of the NHK World and Ogawa san of the Tokyo Broadcasting System (TBS) when suddenly the building started shaking. Mildly at first. “It’s normal,” one of them reassured me. But the quake only intensified and things started falling down around us. Some people started screaming outside. Sakitsu took out his phone and was rather shocked by what he saw on the mini-screen, “It is a big one. It hit Fukushima. Tsunami alert along the Pacific Coast.” There was an emergency. Immediately he excused himself and rushed off. Ogawa, seeing me little dazed, asked me to follow him to his office – the TBS building, which is probably one of the safest buildings in Tokyo. I followed him. In the streets people were running all over the place. A big earthquake has just hit Japan. The 9.0RS earthquake has released an energy that was equivalent to 30,000 times to the atomic bomb that was dropped in Hiroshima during the World War II. But more than the earthquake (because Japan was prepared for it) it was the tsunami it triggered that devastated the north-eastern coast of Japan. Scenes of cities beings washed away, like in the movie Day After Tomorrow, were flashed on TV news over and over again. At the time of posting this article, over 3,000 people have been confirmed dead, as many were still missing and over quarter of a million have been left homeless or directly affected.
The response to the disaster was quick. Over 1.2 million people were evacuated within minutes after the tsunami alarm went off along the Pacific Coast - from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu islands in the South. Relief and recovery teams went into action even before the first wave of Tsunami hit the Iwate prefecture (which was closest to the epicenter). Trains, airports and subways were suspended and elevators in every building in Japan were disabled with clockwork precision. The Self Defense Force (Japan’s army) was put into action and the Parliament suspended the debate and the session to allow the government to deal with the crisis.
But what really amazed me was not the Japanese efficiency at work. Rather the courage and the dignity with which the Japanese people, those who were directly affected, dealt with the tragedy. It is often said that the worst of times brings the best and the worst in us. In the case of Japan, it has brought only the best in their people. Although left with nothing for themselves and for their family, people lined up in the usual orderly manner – to get some food, buy some supplies or to make telephone calls from public fixed lines. The sense of community was simply moving. For all their technological advancements the core value of Japanese society, the social harmony, is still strong. Usually emotions run high and looting and riots take place where desperation sets in. This has happened in recent tragedies and turmoils all over the World. But not in the Land of Rising Sun. I couldn’t help but admire my in-laws (my wife is a Japanese) more than ever before for their great courage and the highest sense of civility.
On 13th March I boarded my flight for Seoul as scheduled from New Tokyo International Airport in Narita. Life in Tokyo had almost come to normal after two days although the after-shocks and the threat from the Fukushima nuclear plant kept coming. I called up Ogawa, Sakitsu and my sister-in-law, Junko, for taking care of me and sending me home safely. As the flight took off from Narita airport, I bid goodbye, for this time, to this country that has given me so much but was going through, what PM Kan described as, the worst crisis since WW II.
As we climbed higher I looked out of the window and saw the earth moving away and clouds slowly covering my second homeland. A deep sadness engulfed my heart. If there was one positive thing for me out of this incident, I realized how much my friends here and my in-laws cared for me and how much I have become closer to this country. I also realised how unpredictable life could be - for individuals and for nations.
But just as the aircraft turned left on its final trajectory towards Seoul, a bright light appeared in the horizon. It was Mount Fuji, beaming with the winter snow still covering its summit. Standing above the dark cloud that was now covering everything below us, I smiled tearfully at the sight and offered a little prayer. “Yes, Mount Fuji,” I thought, “You are the spirit of this Nation. Rising above all adversities."
Whatever destruction or despair Mother Nature may have thrown on this Land, suddenly I felt confident that like Fuji san (as the Japanese refer to their favorite mountain) the people here would stand tall, rise above the situation to rebuild their nation and move on. They have done that in the past. They will do again this time.
That is the strength of the Land of the Rising Sun.
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Walking the Impermanence philosophy
Last-minute rush is a trademark of the Bhutanese people. And I am a real pro in this. One of my former bosses used to call me ‘the last minute genius’ because I would do most of my work at last minute and, more often than not, I would do it well.





























